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Home arrow Past Walks arrow Hiking in Guangxi Province, China from 23rd to 28th October, 2009 (Postponed from beginning of Oct.)
Hiking in Guangxi Province, China from 23rd to 28th October, 2009 (Postponed from beginning of Oct.)
 
Written by Francis,
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1. This trip was originally planned for the Chinese National Day and Mid-Autumn Festival long week-end holiday at the beginning of October, 2009. There was difficulty in booking the sleepers' bus from Shenzhen to Liuzhou, and so this trip is now postponed to the Chung Yeung Festival at the end of October, 2009. Details of the trip are as below... Anybody who is interested in joining me can email me leefch2001 at gmail dot com

2. My plan is to leave Hong Kong after work in the evening of Friday, 23rd October 2009 (exit at Lo Wu Border Control Point at about 7.15 p.m. Lo Wu is the last KCR train station on the Hong Kong side of the border) to take a deluxe sleepers' bus from Shenzhen to Liuzhou. We'll arrive at Liuzhou in the early morning on the next day. From Liuzhou, we'll take transport (about 3 hours) into the Tai Yiu Mountains. The Tai Yiu area is inhabited by the Yao tribe, a minority group in this part of China.

3. We'll be based in a remote village called Cheung Dong in the mountains, which has a basic guesthouse. We'll hire a local from the village who will lead us to walk in the mountains for two days. The walks are two booters.

4. The plan is that the main group will leave Cheung Dong in the late morning of Tuesday, 27th October and take the same deluxe night bus back to Shenzhen, and then cross the border back to Hong Kong. It is expected that the group will arrive at Hong Kong in the early morning (at about 08.00a.m. or 09.00a.m.) on the following day (28th October).

5. This means that if you are joining this trip you will probably have to take time-off from work for 27th October and half-day (the morning) for 28th October. The 26th October is the Chung Yeung Festival and a public holiday in Hong Kong.

6. Those who want to return to Hong Kong early may do so, as the same deluxe bus runs every night from Liuzhou back to Shenzhen. I think there is also a day bus from Liuzhou back but I am not sure, but the sleepers' bus saves a lot of time.

7. I'll probably stay behind in Guangxi Province for a few more days after the main group has left, to explore the other rural areas in the region and do more hiking. Anybody who wants to stay behind in Guangxi to do some more hikes with me are welcome.

 

8. Note that this is a backpacking trip. You should not expect any western comforts. There is a proper toilet and hot shower in the guesthouse.

 

9. I do not know how much this trip would cost, although I would think it should be less than $1,000HK. This will include everything but not the Chinese visa, if you need one to visit China. You have to arrange the Chinese visa yourself.

 

10. Do not make any arrangement for the Chinese visa until I confirm with you in the middle of October that we'll definitely go ahead with this trip.

 

11. If you have any questions about this trip, do not hesitate to email me.

Francis

 

Disclaimer:- People join this trip at their own risks.  I shall not be held responsible in any way for any injury or death incurred or any loss or damage to personal property caused due to whatever causes including, but not limited to, negligence, neglect, errors of judgment and inadequate orientation skills on my part.  The fact that you show up at the appointed time and place on the day to join the trip is an implication that you have agreed to and accepted unconditionally this disclaimer.    Francis.

Last update: 24-12-2009 12:01

Keywords : Guangxi
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Posted by Francis, on 03-12-2009 13:24,
1. Guangxi Trip Report
Seven Trampers joined this trip to the mountainous Yao region of Guangxi Province in southern China. They met up in Sheung Shui MTR Station in Hong Kong, crossed the border at Lowu and took the deluxe sleepers bus to Liuzhou in Guangxi. The bus arrived at Liuzhou in the early morning of 24th October; and after five of them had purchased the return bus tickets at the Liuzhou bus station, the whole group jumped into a mini-bus which took them to Jinxiu, and from there they switched to another mini-bus to Cheung Dong. 
2. Upon arriving to the Yao minority village at Cheung Dong which would be their home for the next few days, they dropped their packs at the best (and only) guesthouse in the village; named "Eat here; Sleep here" which was conveniently located on the main street and across from the fresh food market where they purchased a variety of food to be cooked by the host (the guesthouse keeper) for their lunch. The host had arranged two large rooms with a variety of beds for the group. The guesthouse had 2 working squat style toilets, an outdoor kitchen, and even hot water in the lower bathroom.  
3. After the meal, the group set off first in a van, then on foot for a short hike with Francis (the trip leader) as their guide. This first short hike led them across a meadow of rice fields and down into the start of a winding series of rivers that would become familiar to the group over the next two and a half days. By following the river; walking along one bank, then removing their boots and crossing to the other bank, the group were able to navigate a short distance into the base of the steep karst mountains that rise almost vertically in the area. 
4. After a few hours of hiking, stream crossing, log balancing and walking on single-track trails, then loosing and finding the trails, they found the sun setting and had a short, near vertical climb up the canyon wall to the road above.  
5. On their walk back to the village, they came across a small house near the trailhead. The occupants were sitting down to dinner and invited the group in for a chat. They were happy to see them return, and explained that they had seen the group walk past earlier and planned to go out in the dark to search for them if they hadn't showed up soon. This unexpected helpfulness and generosity was an ongoing theme of the whole village. 
5. After showering, John Arndt had the privilege of joining Francis in visiting the home of a Mr. Lee, whom they hoped would be available to guide the group in their hikes in the days to come. They entered Mr. Lee's beautiful adobe home as he was at dinner with his friends. Mr. Lee offered them seats, overflowing cups of homemade rice wine, and dinner; the focal point being a bowl of lightly fried hornets which only Francis was brave enough to taste.  
6. Upon returning to the main village, the group walked to a bamboo bar cum restaurant (bamboo,literally, as the big hut was constructed mostly with bamboo) nearby; the best and only hotpot spot in the village. The owner, cook and DJ (all the same young man) took the group’s long-winded order and sped away on his motorbike to collect fresh ingredients from the fields and farms. The group spent the night at their private table in the open courtyard under the stars eating great food and drinking red wine they had brought from Hong Kong, along with the local beer. 
7. The next morning the group had a large early 7 am breakfast at the guesthouse and took the short walk to Mr. Lee's house to start a long day’s hike. Mr. Lee led the group along the Jeep road to a bend in which they could see a small waterfall peeking out of the foliage and rolling down the mountain face. This was the start of a steep and sometimes slick and dangerous climb up the mountain, following the small stream which led the group up, and up through a beautiful jungle, a thick banana tree forest, and finally to a trail-less climb through grass so tall and dense that only Mr. Lee's huge machete could navigate it. 
8. After the tiring climb through the grass, the group found themselves on a trail along the ridge of a series of mountains. From there the group could see 'Shing Tong Shan' and various other peaks majestically poking through the fog in the distance. Following this trail, they passed several groups of local Yao people working to cut and move logs, which seemed to be the main use of the trail.  
9. Later, on the logging trail, the group would come across a small vegetable garden and meet an old Yao woman ready to return to her home, which was in the village that they were headed towards. Amazingly she was around 70 years old, barefoot and had a huge basket of beets on her back. Her machete and two walking sticks were all she needed for the 3 or so kilometer hike back to her village. John tried to take some nice pictures of her, but he found that she had a strong dislike for his camera, but seemed to be happy with the chocolate that Carrie offered her. Being hard of hearing, she had a very loud conversation with Mr. Lee and then left us. 
10. The trails led the group to the next Yao Village, which was larger than their own home village, and nested along a relatively steep mountain base. The group visited the locals and then headed down the mountain, through the village and through the beautifully stepped sets of rice paddies, which led to another small river in the valley. This river offered a variety of nice waterfalls and would eventually led the group to a small road and yet another small village in which we were invited into a house for a well-deserved tea break. In exchange for a comfortable spot to sit and tea to drink, the old woman got a nice chuck of dark chocolate from Amaia and enjoyed it with a big smile. 
11. Back on the road, a motorbike stopped to inspect the Trampers, which represented no less than 4 countries; China, Germany, Spain and the USA. Carrie and Jeanette must be tired at that point because they were quick to agree with the driver on a price to take them back 'home.'  
12. The rest of the group tramped on along the road a short distance until they were alongside and above a perfect turquoise river. They dropped down the next trail to walk alongside the river until they found a great swimming spot in which Amaia, Rebecca and John took a refreshing swim. Amaia's swimming apparel (undies) tempted some nearby male fishermen (who also stripped down to their undies:- all races are equal) in for a swim as well, and the group were entertained by a short rock jumping show.  
13. Following the river, the group arrived to a juncture where a second smaller river joined their river in a series of tall, perfect waterfalls in the rock face. The group climbed the waterfalls and out of the valley to a trail that led through bamboo forests and eventually to a road where they met Mr. Lee's brother- who luckily was a local van driver. 
14. Since part of our group- Amaia and Jeanette- were leaving the next day, the group had an especially good vegetarian dinner of tofu, eggplant, and Thomas’ own cucumber and tomato salad. After dinner the group went out for a wild night at the best and only karaoke bar in town, and that is the hotpot place they had visited the night before.  
15. After a lazy morning, and nice breakfast of soup noodles, the group took the van out about 20 min to the start of a hike. It started relatively flat, with a stream crossing, then up a familiar feeling trail. It turned out to be the same bit of trail as the fist day but after a few minutes the group took a right turn along the river instead of a left as they did before. This led the group deeper and deeper along the river into a gorge with cliffs on both side and beautiful karst mountains that got taller and more epic with every step. There the group passed geometric cliffs, large cube shaped boulders that had fallen into the river and sheer walls that rose vertically out of the river. The walls were the cause of many, many slippery river crossings as one bank was continuously blocked. For the whole day, the group met nobody in the river- they had the whole gorge for themselves. The place was so quiet and beautiful that made Thomas say it was even better than the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge in Yunnan Province. Some of the group were lucky enough to fall into the river and got their shoes wet early in the hike, while others with dry shoes were constantly taking them off to brave the water in bare feet. Carrie convinced Mr. Lee to get a few piggyback rides across the water because she feared that she would lose balance and get wet..  
16. On a few occasions the group needed to climb up the steep banks and then descend back into the rive gorge in order to avoid impassable parts, one climb being nearly vertical with only roots to hang on to.  
17. After taking a snack and a short swim in a clear deep turquoise pool, darkness started to fall. Soon after, the group left the river and started a climb up and out with involved hiking on a vertical rock ledge about 3 meters above the water. Then, while hanging onto a vine above, they needed to take 2 steps on a sheer cliff surface, and finally a leap forward where the ledge ended on solid ground. Amazingly all members of the group survived this and then hiked up and out of the gorge in the dark, before seeing lights in the distance. The group made a few guesses; A bus station? An ice cream shoppe? Cold beer? No, it was a group of local fisherman, out spot lighting fish and catching them in a net. 
18. Another 10 minutes of hiking in the dark brought the group to a shy young man with a powerful spotlight, who after realizing the group were only curious foreigners (and not police), proudly showed off a presumably illegal and somewhat ancient black powder rifle and explained that he was out hunting wild cats. The group continued hiking up and up, and finally into a larger village with a very well lit and lively basketball court until they met their van for a quick and bumpy ride back to the guesthouse for their last dinner. 
19. The next morning, Carrie, Rebecca and John started the long journey back to Hong Kong, while Thomas and Francis stayed behind for more adventuring. 
20. After the main group had left, Francis and Thomas took transport to Luxiang, another Yao minority village some 60km south of Cheung Dong. Neither of them had ever been to this village; it was only Francis who had heard about this very remote village tucked away in the mountains in this region. Luxiang had had a reputation that it was the poorest Yao village in the region, as it had been so isolated from the world before the road was built there some ten years ago (the villagers had to walk 4 hours (their speed) to the nearest town for shopping before the road was constructed, and to carry all the goods back home on their own or horse’s back). It was this reputation of the village that made Francis decide that this was the place to be explored, as he believed that the poorer the place was, the more untouched the scenery, the people, and their culture were. 
21. These two adventurous Trampers stayed for five days in a basic guesthouse in the centre of Luxiang which was a short row of seven or eight concrete houses, flanked by some traditional Yao mud/brick houses which sprawled up the mountain side. The next day Francis and Thomas managed to find a local young man to guide them in a day’s walk around the area, which was beautiful to say the least, with majestic peaks, green rice terraces and rolling meadows here and there. In the next two days the guide took Francis and Thomas trekking in the mountains, where they stayed overnight in a large makeshift ‘open’ tent (a roof with only two walls) which had been constructed by two relatives of the guide. These two relatives had been hunting in the mountains, and they had caught some birds which they killed and roasted over a fire for Francis’ and Thomas’ to eat in the dinner. In the middle of the night, Thomas ventured out on a hunting tour with the rifle carrying guide in the mountains, while Francis chose to sleep the cold night away in the ‘open’ tent in this beautiful Yao mountain. 
22. Luxiang, a beautiful Yao area, is no doubt worth a visit by Trampers in the future. 
 
Report written by John Arndt and edited by Francis
 
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